Prenzlauer Berg, North East of Berlin’s city centre, is a beautiful leafy if a little family-orientated neighbourhood. It isn’t as “cool” as the other eastern districts like Friedrichshain or Kreuzberg, but this is Berlin, so for a London girl, it still has grit. It was my home-from-home for three months at the end of last year and comes into its own on one particular day of the week: Sunday.
So here is my quick guide to the best stops and eating spots for a day in this art-scene hub.
10.00am – Save yourself for a late breakfast at Cafe Krone, a beautiful eatery on Berlin’s most expensive residential street, Oderberger Strasse. The cafe serves all the breakfast classics from pancakes and bacon, smoked salmon platters and avocado on toast. Be prepared for a queue starting around mid-day as this place gets popular for a reason! It is a 10 minute walk from Eberswalder Station, allowing you to appreciate your first tastes of the tree-lined streets and gentrified squatter houses that make up this neighbourhood.
12.00am – 2.00pm – After a hearty brunch it is time to see some Berlin history, so head over to the Berlin Wall memorial. This open air museum starts on Bernauer Straße, just around the corner from Cafe Krone, and includes a section of the original border with an ariel viewpoint and a visitors centre. As you walk down Bernauer Strasse, look out for brass plates in the pavement remembering Berliners who were killed trying to cross the border. It is a moving representation of recent history and of the people who called this area of the city home during that time.
2.00pm – 2.30pm – Continue your tour of this pretty neighbourhood by making your way back towards Eberswalder Strasse via Zionskirchplatz. In the centre of the platz is a Zion church, built in 1873, which you can climb for amazing views across this part of the city.
2.30pm – 4.00pm – It is time for some fun and there is only one place to be on a Sunday afternoon in this neighbourhood – Mauer Park. The Park is central to life here as almost no shops are open on Sundays and it features one of Germany’s largest flea markets. It is easy to get lost and spend a small fortune on smart designer leather satchels, statement jewellery or art pieces or pick up a bargain denim jacket last worn in 1981 – there is something to suit every budget. The park also has live entertainment as plenty of buskers play to the gathered masses and the karaoke stage which looks like a roman amphitheatre is always packed with locals waiting to for the next performer arrive. There are also plenty of street food stall options in the flea market so if you are peckish, this is a great place to pick up an afternoon snack.
4.00pm – 5.30pm – Walking away from the park via Stargarder Strasse, make a sugar stop at Hokey Pokey ice-cream for a sweet treat. German’s love ice cream and come rain or shine there is aways a small queue for service but it is well worth it. Head towards Letterstrasse to see a small neighbourhood park square and make a stop in Wohnzimmer for a coffee – the decor is lounge room from the 1960s and it is a cute place to stop for a warming drink. If you are after a cocktail, head over to Prenzlauer Allee and make your way to Beckett’s Kopf – one of the best bars in the whole city. It is a speakeasy so be prepared to find a plain door and ring the bell for entry!